Problem with Panzers

So I've run into a problem with my plan to create transformable tanks. My suspicion that the German Pz III and Pz IV conversions were going to be tougher than the Allied tanks has proven to be correct.

The problem is that the guns come in pieces: a piece with the barrel (one for each type of gun) and a piece without (only one). I was hoping to drill out a hole in each piece and insert my magnets, but there just isn't quite enough depth. I tried replacing one of the magnets with a piece of steel, but it won't work.

I haven't given up on my plan though.

I'm going to attempt to cast the piece without the barrel. I'm going to create a mold and then use 5 minute epoxy to make enough parts so that each gun will have both parts. 

Wish me luck. My next posting with detail how I did it and how it turned out.

Crusader I, II, and III

Having finished the two Grant/Lee tanks, I decided that I would tackle the four Crusader tanks because they seemed easier than the German tanks. How foolish of me. 

The chassis went together nicely. My plan of adding the Crusader I MG turret worked out nicely. I just thinned out the plastic a bit to help the turret stick. It probably did not need it because I've found the magnets powerful enough to attract through at least one layer of plastic.

It was after I cut out the turret parts that I realized that magnetizing the options was going to be a bit more difficult than I had thought. There's two turret tops but only one turret bottom. So, to swap between the Crusader III and the earlier models, I would have to magnetize the top and bottom. And of course, the two turret tops have completely different hatches, with earlier versions having a slide top. And the Crusader I/II has two different types of gun, a 2lber and a 3" howitzer. 

18 magnets later, I have a completely swappable tank able to be Crusader I complete with auxiliary turret, a Crusader II, a Crusader II CS, and a Crusader III. 

At least I have a pattern to use for the remaining three tanks. I'm going to pay greater attention to polarity in this one so that all the parts will be swappable across all of the Crusaders. This is an extra pain but it will be a benefit when it comes time for gaming. I reckon that fiddling with polarity has added about 30% extra time, but I'm getting a bit smarter in dealing with it.

Next Project: Tanks a lot!

 

I have plenty of tanks. But most of them are 6mm. I do have a very small number of 28mm tanks (2xT34 from two different manufacturers and of different sizes, a Hetzer, and a Sdkfz 222). The 6mm are fine for What A Tanker played on a small board via web cam, but they really don't cut it for a proper game. 

But I do have some 15mm tanks. I have 4 metal T34s of unknown origin, an ancient Battlefront T34 with a resin body and turret and metal accessories, and two sets of FOW El Alamein kits that I won while attending Trumpeter events. One came as a full game, the other was just the tanks.

After the extended time it took to do the 2mm terrain, I figure that doing 15 tanks was a more manageable goal within a reasonable time, especially when the all metal tanks are already done.

But I'm not going to limit myself to just assembling the plastic ones. Why build just a Grant when you can change the turret and have a Lee? Why bother with Buttoned tokens when you can button or unbutton the model?

So armed with some glue, about 260 3mm x 1mm magnets, some knives, a dremel, a drill, tweezers, some other tools, and a whole bunch of patience and ambition, I'm planning on making convertible tanks.

I started off with a Grant. Initially, I was just planning on making it buttoned/unbuttoned, but then I realized that the kit allows me to build as a Lee as well. (The instructions don't show how to build a Lee but the parts are there.) Had I realized before I started that you also had a choice of M2 and M3 for the 75mm sponson gun, I might have attempted to make that swap-able as well. On second thoughts, that might be more trouble than it's worth though.  

Anyway, here is the first tank:

This Grant is buttoned up but I can swap in the open hatch with commander. Or I can go with the Lee turret with the button or unbuttoned MG turret. Because I only have 6 British figures for 6 British tanks, I needed to make the command figures swapable too, and so I can move the commander to the open Lee hatch. The magnet that holds the open MG turret to the main turret serves a double duty as it also holds the command figure through a very thin plastic layer (you can actually see a bit of the magnet.

Gaming in the Age of COVID: What a Tanker

Robert (from Gaming on Vancouver Island) and I made contact and arranged to play What a Tanker! on Sunday evening. I had been working on my 2mm board, which we would repurpose for 6mm. Despite some initial technical hitches, we got rolling with Robert taking a Pz IV and me with a 75mm Sherman. We treated the brown areas as open terrain (though in hind sight, we should use them as light woods for cover) and I laid out some hedges and houses. I came in from the bottom and Robert from the top (beside the house). 

The first few turns were inconclusive as both of us had gunners who were obviously blind.  I was trying to maneuver and approach him and just as I was getting close, Robert did a blitz down the road, but missed on the flank shot.

Example of the blindness

Having exchanged ends, we blazed away at each other, slowly backing up as a result of damage.

 This lead to me to continue on my path into the field and eventually to near the house. Things looked grim for me as Robert gradually improved his aim and I got down to 1 die (2 permanent and 3 temporary damage). I managed to reacquire 2 of the temporary dice but I had suffered to hull critical hits. Things weren't going entirely Robert's way though, because I hit him for two critical hits (one hull and one turret) plus backing him up a few times as well.

After regaining all of my dice (actually 4), I managed to roll a magical 3, 4, 5, 4. The first hit bounce but the second one I rolled 3 6's and a 5. Robert rolled one 5 as a save, and his tank burned.

Thank you to Robert for a fun game.

Test for 6mm WAT on a 2mm board

I dug out my 6mm terrain and minis just to see how they would look on my 2mm board. I have an upcoming game of What A Tanker! and I wanted to see how the terrain would work.

I think I will use some of my not quite finished Shermans and some not quite finished German tanks because I haven't based them. Even though I have used minimal bases, they still don't quite sit as well on the terrain as I'd like. If you are going to use contoured terrain like this, you might as well have minis that hunker down into it.

This doesn't mean that I have turned anti-basing on vehicles. I'm still planning on basing all of them because I use steel for the bases and I line my carry cases with that magnetic paper so they don't move at all. This preserves their paint job and also keeps those guns straighter for longer.

(Wow, I have a lot of Shermans! I must have more than 50 of them.)

As a bonus, I found four 15mm T34s I had forgotten about. My 15mm WAT collection just grew by 50%.