To the Limit

 I've added AMS Lite to my 3D printer. AMS Lite is an attachment (not literally) for the A1 Mini and it allows you to print in up to four colours. I also ordered a spool of black, dark blue, light blue, and a sort of fleshy colour. Also in my order was a 0.2mm nozzle. Naturally, I wanted to see how tiny I could go. Pretty tiny, as it turned out, using the smallest layer height (0.6mm).

I decided I would also try my hand at designing some figures. I worked in Tinkercad creating 8mm American Civil War figures, which I knew I would scale down by 25% in Bambu Studio. I sort of knew beforehand that the figures would be too skinny, but I also wanted to see if I can get "realistic" and "proportional". Here's a more close up photo with a 15mm Zulu mounted on a penny.

I'm pretty impressed by how these turned out. Yes, there's some fuzz between the kepis, the flag didn't survive removal from the plate, and it is extremely wasteful of filament, but it was a worthwhile experiment.

I'm already working on 2.0. I'll make it much sturdier by having the figures slightly overlap, thicken up the flag a bit, and make the base thicker. 

Project 2mm Terrain: Lessons Learned

So now that I am done with my 2mm terrain, what are my thoughts?

• At times it was a slog, other times it was enjoyable. The toughest moments were half way through the contours, probably somewhere around the 120 foot mark. I had been creating elevations but was mostly just almost covering the previous contour. I enjoyed putting on the flock the most because of how good it made the board look.
• I'm stubborn. Even though I knew my contouring was flawed, I kept consistent with my method even though it was not efficient nor fast.
• In retrospect, I should have done a contour every 20 feet because that would have represented the actual slope of the land better.
• I might not do contours next time. Instead, I'll do smoothed hills. That being said, I think the contours worked pretty well for this board.
• Stupidly, I didn't bother using Google Earth to look at the terrain until I nearly completed the contours. I guess I got excited by having a good contour map to look at and just didn't consider the vertical scaling.
• There's a number of maps of Gaines Mill and other than all of them agreeing that Boatswain's Creek being wooded, they didn't agree much with the placement of other woods and swamps. In the end, I use the contour map for the Boatswain's Creek woods and another map for the other woods. I also extended the Boatswain's Creek woods and swamp based on the description of the battle. I figured the D.H. Hill probably had a good reason not to just immediately attack the far left of the Union line, so I gave him that reason with that terrain. 
• Looking at the actual contours, the positioning of some of the Union units makes little sense, particularly the artillery, so I moved them a bit for my recreation shots. Accounts of D.H. Hill coming under long range artillery fire is only possible if the batteries on the Union left are on the ridge line and not in the valley where the map has them.
• The 3mm x 1mm magnets I bought (300 for $15CDN) work just great for placing the buildings.
• It will be quite a while before I do any more 2mm terrain. I do have some buildings, walls, and tree castings I can paint.
• If I do another board like this, it will probably be for Antietam (or part of it because that is a pretty big battle).

On to the next project. Let me give you a hint:

Project 2mm Terrain: Done!!!!!

It's done! Finally finished!

I had a momentary bit of panic when I could not find my 2mm figures. While it's distressing to search and search for something, there was some good that came out of it: I did a little reorganization of my hobby desk/storage, cleaned out one more bin of hobby stuff, found some more 2mm terrain bits, and  found another 15mm tank that I can use for What A Tanker!. 

So in celebration of finishing the project, I put my newly found figures onto the terrain board. The stands represent roughly the positions in the battle of Gaines Mill 1862 at 2:30pm. I didn't put troops in the woods, but I could have because the woods are removable (as are the buildings). As my figures are based according to Antietam and for a different corps, the regiment names don't correspond to the regiments in the battle.

Anyway, here for you enjoyment are some pix:

Gregg's Confederate brigade emerging from the woods to attack Warren's Union brigade

View from above showing Gregg disguised as Wilcox and Warren disguised as Brooke

A third view of the action

From the Confederate viewpoint

DH Hill's division arrives on the far left of the Confederates

View of DH Hill's arrival in Old Cold Harbor. He would continue in this direction until he arrived on the flank of Gregg

Buchanan observes Hill's arrival with a protective swamp to his front

In the centre, Branch is launching his attack to support Gregg to his left. On the right, is Field. On the other side of the creek, Lovell's Unionists await in the woods.

Porter commands from near the Adams farm. Gregg's attack is in the background to the right. Directly ahead is the rear rank of Lovell's brigade.

To Porter's left, Martindale makes his headquarters in Watt's house. Most of his troops are dug in half way up the bank of Boatswain's Creek. To the left of Martindale is Butterfield.

A shot showing Field's Confederate brigade in the centre advancing in the woods of Boatswain's Creek. To his left is the second rank of Branch's brigade and behind him, partially obscured by woods is Pender. Powhite Creek is in the foreground and to the right.

Pender's brigade following Field's.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 12

The end is nigh! I've done the swamp, completed the woods, and finished the buildings. The penultimate step I've just completed: giving everything a good spay with a Mod Podge and water mix to stick everything down and seal it.

The final step is to paint the frame just to make it look good. I've got some nice grey house paint that should do the trick. It won't take much time to do.

So here's an other teaser shot of the terrain to whet your appetite. My next posting will have a bunch of glamour shots showing the final board, complete with detachable forests and buildings and with my 2mm miniatures in roughly the Gaines Mill deployment.

Terrain Teaser

I've made a little progress on my 2mm terrain, but not enough to justify a full update. I now have some buildings I can put on the board. The buildings have magnets embedded in them so that I can add or remove them as I want. I need to seal and paint them.

House and barn

I experimented adding a thin black wash to darken some trees and some thin yellow to lighten some. The black worked but the yellow didn't really.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 11

With the end in sight, I'm making a determined effort in the three remaining areas:

• Woods
• Swamp/bog
• Buildings

I was going to do some planted fields but I think I'm going to leave them out so that the terrain is a little more reusable. With magnetized buildings that I can remove, the board can also be used for 6mm as well as 2mm.

For the woods, I was hoping to use something like paper, which would be flexible so that the contours would show up. Instead, I am using just plain foam core that I've piled up with clump foliage.

(I'll add clump foliage to the sides, but it is not sticking quite as well as I had hoped. It's going to take a couple of passes, I think.)

I encountered a problem with warping with my first test piece but I think I can bend it into submission. The problem of having too even of a colour for the trees I think I will fix by some creative other flocking and also by a little staining and painting after I've sealed them with a coating or two of diluted Mod Podge. Scattering some clump foliage randomly around the board will also help tie the whole board all together.

I have also broken up the woods into clumps so that I can remove just the bits I need. 

I will use magnets so that the forest clumps stick a bit to the board so that I can remove them as needed.

I'm hoping to complete the woods by the end of the weekend, but I'm probably optimistic about that.

Test for 6mm WAT on a 2mm board

I dug out my 6mm terrain and minis just to see how they would look on my 2mm board. I have an upcoming game of What A Tanker! and I wanted to see how the terrain would work.

I think I will use some of my not quite finished Shermans and some not quite finished German tanks because I haven't based them. Even though I have used minimal bases, they still don't quite sit as well on the terrain as I'd like. If you are going to use contoured terrain like this, you might as well have minis that hunker down into it.

This doesn't mean that I have turned anti-basing on vehicles. I'm still planning on basing all of them because I use steel for the bases and I line my carry cases with that magnetic paper so they don't move at all. This preserves their paint job and also keeps those guns straighter for longer.

(Wow, I have a lot of Shermans! I must have more than 50 of them.)

As a bonus, I found four 15mm T34s I had forgotten about. My 15mm WAT collection just grew by 50%.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 10

Last week, I hurt my back while trying to suppress a sneeze because I was holding my dog at the time (ridiculous as this sounds) and I didn't want to drop her. It got worse Thursday and Friday, but with drugs and ample use of a TENS machine, on Saturday I felt pretty decent so I thought I could flock my board as a relaxing afternoon diversion.

I'm pretty happy with the initial flocking. There's plenty of helpful Youtube content out there on how to flock and armed with that knowledge, I put down this first coating for the general fields. The dark patches are going to be heavy woods and I'm thinking a mix of coffee grounds and a dark green flock will be good to represent this terrain, plus eventually a canopy of coarse turf as the tree tops. The medium brown represents bogs and marsh and I'm thinking about using some static grass and coarse dark green turf for that.

I think I do need to consult with Lukes APS, Mel the Terrain Tutor, and maybe some others because I'm not sure whether I seal this layer and then do another or just keep layering on and then seal.

I may have overdone things on Saturday because my back is a bit sore this Sunday. I did take some pix and post them because I'm happy with the progress.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 9

Now that renovations have finished, I got a little time this weekend to do some miniatures stuff. I got the urge to work on my terrain board. I was hoping to start flocking it but instead I'll settle for blocking out the heavy woods, swamp, and other terrain, because white background is the devil when it comes to flocking.

One of the reasons I had problems is that I discovered that I only have 2 inch brushes or 00 brushes. Nothing in between. So it meant slathering on with the big brush and then having to use the small brush to put in the edges.

Nevertheless, this is progress!

I must say the board looks radically different with the contour lines now blending in.

Trumpeter in March

With the rush to finish our home renovations, posting (and all miniature activity) has taken a back seat. Renovations are done (yea!) so I'm posting about the Trumpeter game on the first Friday of March.

It was an interesting English Civil War battle with 2mm figures using the Rampant rules engine (in this case Rebels and Patriots with some modifications, instead of the more temporal Pike and Shotte).

The main modification was automatic passing for movement activation. This made keeping formations possible and worked nicely. I'm not entirely sure whether the formations are built into the game and just renamed or whether they were modifications.

The battle started from a historical deployment. You can see more pictures at The Dying Gaul and he has another account of the battle.

 My initial thought was to push on the right and hold up on the left, falling back if necessary. Another Parliamentary commander showed up so I gave him command of the left starting from the artillery.

I had expected the Royalist to really push hard with both cavalry, so I was surprised when that did not happen. I felt a little bad for giving the other guy a command that wasn't really seeing action, but that wasn't what I anticipated when I gave him those troops.

On my right, I managed to win the cavalry battle by 1-2 punching the Royalist horse with one of my reserve units. I then used them to roll up the infantry.

 Here you see the Parliament horse on the right chasing off the Royalist cavalry, before wheeling to roll up the infantry.

Eventually, after doing nothing for a couple of turns, Rupert finally got the Royalist horse moving forward. However, they suffered from dismal activation rolls so no more than one unit was able to attack per turn.

This meant that the lone Parliament cavalry unit was able to fend off the entire Royalist attack, with minor assistance of a dragoon unit.



The end is nigh with the Royalist infantry threatened from the front and rear.

Good fortune was on the Parliament side for even when I lost a battle, I managed to take out the opposing horse through distracting them with a pursuit.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 8

The project has taken a back seat to house renovations, and as a result, I've lost a lot of momentum and my will to complete it has fallen off quite a bit. Perhaps documenting where I'm at will help me get my mojo back on this.

Basically, I have completed the terrain elevations. I have also put some boards around the outside, which cleans up the edges and provides support and rigidity.


I have partially sealed the entire thing but I think I will wait until I get to some Mod Podge to do the job properly. I have to see how much dirt brown paint I have because I want to paint the entire thing with three different browns: regular dirt, a darker shade for swamp and bog, and a different brown for forested areas.

Once I have that done, I can put the roads in and flock it. Then it will be about putting in buildings and fences and other features.

Project 2mm Terrrain: Update 7

Woooo Hooo!

✅ 80 ✅ 90 ✅ 100  ✅ 110 ✅ 120 ✅ 130 ✅ 140 ✅ 150 ✅ 160 ✅ 170 ✅ 180 ✅ 190

I've completed all the hills on the board! It took a lot longer than I expected but I did get faster as I went along.

Here's the board almost complete with just the corner to go. I finished it the next night. Despite each contour being only 1mm, there's some really substantial valleys in the board.

Things I learned

Well, I've learned a few things that, if I ever do this again, I would do differently:

• Not do every contour line. I would just do every second contour using the foamcore and use polyfilla to smooth out the contour lines
• Put reinforcing bars. About half way through, the board started to warp and it's now at about 1/2 inch on both ends. 
• Cork is a neat material to use. I would use it more often for contouring because it is easy to cut using scissors, flexible, and resists compression. It is pretty expensive if you need to use a lot.

What's next

1. Add some 1x1 bars to the back to straighten it out.
2. Since I have decided to keep the contours showing, trim some of the paper overhangs so that all of the contours are clean.
3. Seal the board so that it won't absorb water when I flock.
4. Mark the locations of the waterways, roads, and buildings.
5. Figure out how tall to make the trees.
6. Figure out where to put the woods and how to do them. One woods is marked on the board. I've seen another map with woods in other locations.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 6

✅ 80 ✅ 90 ✅ 100  ✅ 110 ✅ 120 ✅ 130 ✅ 140  150  160  170  180  190

That's another 2 levels done. The next set of two are the trickiest in terms of complex shapes but after that, the hills smooth out and take up less overall terrain.

The more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to keep the contour lines. I won't be saving any time because I would need to clean up the paper overhangs, but I think it will perform better as a gaming table, even if it is not quite as "realistic". There's a kind of honesty to keeping the construction method exposed that I'm appreciating.

(I really need to get a new phone. These are terrible pictures)

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 5

✅ 80 ✅ 90 ✅ 100  ✅ 110 ✅ 120  130  140  150  160  170  180  190 

Woo Hoo! I have the wind at my back and things are progressing nicely. I've just completed up to the 120 foot contour. It's this contour and the next two that are the most complex, large, and fiddly. The pinning technique is working brilliantly and it's helping to speed things up.

I'm currently waiting for the glue on the second part of the 120 to dry so that I can trim off the excess. So I thought I would take some time while the glue dries to do this update. Sorry, no pix but they really wouldn't show anything.

I've been watching Luke's APS channel on Youtube and it is brilliant in how he shares his techniques. Yes, he pushes his products but that is redeemed by how he reveals how he actually makes his products and how he uses them and how he uses competing products. From his one-day builds, he's given me an idea on how to finish and protect this project. If I can find it cheap enough, I'm planning on using a deep picture frame, turn it upside down, and insert the terrain. If I can't, I'll have a go at making the equivalent.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 4

Well, I have now completed the hills on the extreme left of the battlefield, where the initial Confederate thrust came from.

I'll confess that my slow progress has mainly come from a lack of motivation, slow progress, and how fiddly the whole process has been. But last night, I had a brain wave. Since I am using foamcore and cork as my materials, I can just pin the terrain in place until it is dry. All of a sudden, the fiddliness has gone away and it's just become a matter of cutting the pieces out, gluing them, and pinning them in place.

Completing the western hills represents only a small fraction of the entire battlefield but doing something and having it come out looking really good has raise my morale and now I want get the rest done.

I was toying with the idea of smoothing out the contours but now I've gone the other way and I'm thinking I might keep them. I might do some experimentation before I decide.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 3

✅ 80 ✅ 90 ✅ 100  110  120  130  140  150  160  170  180  190 

I have now done the 90 foot contour and the 100 foot contour. The one change to my plans is that I've ended up gluing the paper pattern I used to cut the contours back onto the elevations. I think it will help me with positioning the roads, buildings and creeks later on.

I'm liking how it is looking but it is much, much slower going than I had anticipated. And it will get a lot worse too because the two levels that I did are likely the easiest ones to do. The next 2 levels will be the worst.

There are two "islands" on the left side and I've got one in the above shot. I'm going to the much larger one next and build it up to its apex of 170 feet because it will be useful practice for the rest of the board. I've already learned that I need to cut inside the lines and I shall learn a few more things as I go.

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 2

So, I've spent the last few days tracing out the topographic lines with a different colour for each elevation.

Though tedious, it has been a useful exercise because sometimes the lines get hard to see, obscured by something on the map, or even almost overlapping. Tracing has let me work out what lines apply to each elevation.

It's also let me figure out the general lay of the land. Most of the battle field is at 150-170 feet.

I've also had yet another rethink and I've decided that I'm going to go with a 1mm cork with 2mm foamcore. I just couldn't find any 1mm board that would be sturdy enough so this will be a compromise of the heavy durability of cork and the cheapness of foamcore. It's going to be every second elevation line with the foamcore and the cork providing the step up between.

The next step is cut out the 100 foot mark, use it as a pattern on the foam core. Then I'll do the same for the 90 mark on the cork.

(I also apologize for the really crappy photography. The lens on my phone is so scratched up that all photos no look like they've been taken in a heavy fog.)

Project 2mm Terrain: Update 1

I now have the big map done and cut to fit my board. I ended up extending the length of the board by 3" just in case I want to recreate the battle exactly. The extra 3" lets me put 3 Confederate batteries on board, which is always better than off board.

I also skewed the map slightly to minimize the 80' contour and confine it to the very corner of the board.

I think the next step is to colourize the contour lines because my plan is to cut each contour out one at a time and use it as a pattern to cut my foamcore. This would be an effectively irreversible process (because I would need to reprint the map, tape it together, and re-cut the contour lines), so I don't want to make a mistake. I'm hoping the colouring will reduce the chance of an error.

I expect I won't be ready to cut my first contour until the weekend.

Project 2mm Terrain: A Slight Rethink

Of course, the moment I clicked Publish on my grand plans, all kind of thoughts came rushing forward. Most of them I dismissed right a way, but there was one that seemed kind of important.

The key thing about this project is that even though I may never game on the board, it is possible that I might. This means that it needs to work as a gaming board. Near the position of Anderson's battery, there's a rather steep hill down to the Powhite creek. It occurred to me that on the terrain board that the 5 levels of change might be a little steep for even 2mm figures on bases to handle. Basically, I was looking at the rise and run being about the same. I really don't want the miniatures to be tumbling down hills unless the hill is basically impassible.

(As an aside, I did a bit of a rough calculation and as far as I can tell, it's a 50 foot altitude change in 250 feet, so at a 20% grade, it is a significant descent.)

So I decided to blow the map up a bit more to mellow out the ascents and descents. So instead of going up 5 levels in about a 1/2", it will be closer to 1". As an added bonus, I think I can get rid of the 80' altitude band (the red line) to simplify my work (or I might just carve it into the MDF through a bit of Dremel work).

The cost is now I must position the big map onto the MDF to figure out which parts of the battlefield will disappear. I suspect the main subtractions will be on the right and on the bottom.

So it's a tiny step backwards but I think it will be better.

The Next Project: Project 2mm Terrain

With renovations slowing down for the summer, it's time to get back to building or painting some miniatures. So, in line with my New Year's Resolutions, it's time to announce my latest project:

Terrain for 2mm ACW

I don't really see anybody wanting to game with my 2mm figures but I do want to have some terrain so that they can have a nice display at the very least. I might even get some solo gaming in if I have something to play on. So, this has lead to this project.

Where to start

I've always liked those architectural models they used to do to display new buildings. They'd have a nice topographical levels to show the slopes and changes of elevation. I want to do that.

I've done a poke around the interwebs and stumbled upon a really good site for these maps: https://www.battlefields.org.

I wanted an eastern battle and I wanted one with some water features and some woods but also not too much. I also wanted one that looked reasonably big but not too big and with some elevation changes but not too much. 

In the end, I selected Gaines Mill, June 27th 1862. There's five creeks but only two are really important. There's some significant woods but they consume more than 15% of the board. There's between 70-190 feet of elevation but I'm going to ignore the very lowest level. Each contour line is 10 feet (I'm assuming feet because it is a US organization). As a bonus, I can easily extend the battlefield to the north and do Cold Harbor.

Here's the map:

The yellow is the 150 feet elevation, the green is 100, and red is 80 feet.

(Actually, there's three of them and they are slightly different in what they show, which will be handy in filling in the bits covered by the legend, title, and compass rose.)
 https://www.battlefields.org/sites/default/files/atoms/files/gaines-mill-june-27-1862-1-1.pdf.

If my calculations are correct, I'll be running a 1/6000 ground scale.

The plan

Here's the plan

1. ✅Select the map.
2. ✅Get the base board. I'm using a 2x4 piece of 2mm MDF but I'll only use 2x almost 3 of it for the board itself.
3. ✅Get the material to build the elevations. I was originally going to use MDF for the elevations but there's a few problems with that. MDF is nasty stuff to work on dust wise and I want to minimize my lung's exposure to it. Secondly, while I actually have the perfect power tool to cut the back and forth wanderings, it's a power tool and I have limited time available to use it. Instead, I've gone with a nice set of foamcore boards. As a bonus, they're also a bit cheaper. With foamcore, I can just use some scalpels.
4. ✅Scale up the maps to fit.
5. Starting with the lowest elevation, start cutting out the hills. I have two copies of the map printed and ready to go (and I can make more copies if need be. I have 12 elevations to do but very few of them will be simple cuts.
• ✅ 80 (only in the very lower left of the battle field)
• ✅ 90
• ✅ 100 (lower left and extending up the left side and from the left to the left centre)
• ✅ 110
• ✅ 120
• 130
• 140
• 150 (the bulk of the battlefield is in this elevation or within 20 of it)
• 160
• 170
• 180
• 190 (just a few hilltops in the lower centre although there are some high spots in the upper centre as well
6. Put in the streams and creeks.
7. Put in the old roads. Fortunately, the PDF marks where they are.
8. Put in the buildings. There are 4 of them.
9. Review any existing images and see if I can figure out the fields and how they were delineated. Maybe also use Google Earth.
10. I haven't decided whether I want to smooth out the contours using spackle. I think it depends on what I find in the previous step.
11. Turf up the whole battlefield.
12. Step back and admire.